Having finished my first week of work at "Zee Gables," as my new French chef friend calls it, I can offer three judgments. First, Russell is a postcard. I lucked out in the sense that the area is beautiful; between the turquoise water, the sailboats, and rustic charm of the quiet bayside village, it really does feel like its own little world. Really little. On my first off-day from the restaurant yesterday, I strolled over to Long Beach, on the other side of the hill behind the town. Snoop Dogg would be pretty upset because Long Beach is actually the East side of Russell, thereby preventing me from saying, "Long Beach: west side 'till I die." Nevermind. Anyway, after making the arduous 10-minute walk along a footpath that curls through lush green vegetation, you crest the hill and look down upon, well, another postcard. Only this one is better, because the tourists rarely indulge in the effort to see it, so this nearly half-mile long beach, with spectacular views across the bay to distant hills rising up out of the water, becomes, in a sense, your own personal playground. It's almost unreal. I had to pinch myself to believe it, since there are absolutely no women around to do the pinching for me. But, I digress (although there is some hope: one, we're not into the summer tourist season quite yet, and two, the ferry captain told me that rush hour in New Zealand is at 6am, when all the husbands and wives go back to their own houses. Oh yeah.). So, I laid there for a couple of hours doing a crossword puzzle between peeks at the vista that lay just beyond my sand-covered feet. Though there is usually always a breeze in town, since this particular beach is on the other side of the hills, it's much less windy. And, because I have an anemometer for a brain, I found the best part of the beach, up against the hill and shaded by a tree no less, and felt no wind at all. Awesome for me. So, the first warm day since I've been in country coincided with an off day from work and was spent in solitude, on a beautiful beach, with thoughts of a bad Leanardo di Caprio movie in my head.
I'll give you a second to think of the right bad movie. Called. The. Beach. Let's move on.
The second thing I've learned is an interesting juxtaposition. And when I say "interesting," I mean for me, not so much for anyone else. Russell's economy depends on the summer season. Russell's quixotic nature depends on the summer season. Most importantly, my emotional health depends on the summer season. And, thus, the dual nature of my life is revealed: on the one hand, I really dig the solitude afforded by this town of 800 accessible mainly by ferry, as yesterday and future afternoons spent on Long Beach will attest. On the other hand, most businesses close by 6pm, the small grocery store at 8pm, and the latest that the pub around the corner, called imaginatively "Pub 'round the Corner," stays open is Midnight (10pm on Sundays and Mondays). So, after getting off at work sometime after 11pm, there's really no time or inclination to walk the 300 yards back to my flat, change, and then walk the 250 yards back to the Pub 'round the Corner for a beer before closing. 300 yards never seemed so far, especially after standing up for anywhere between 6-8 hours straight. I got off work early, around 9pm the other night, and walking home I swore I saw tumbleweed blowing through town. My wind-tunnel-like hostel room in Wellington was noisier than Russell. Lying in bed down in Welly, I could confirm that life was in fact occurring, that I was indeed a sentient being. After all, I could hear the wind and the snoring of my Chinese roommate who was dreaming of the looting and pillaging of Taipei. Here, walking home anytime after 9pm, I very easily could be either a) in a movie where the unsuspecting idiot ambles homeward only to be disemboweled yards from his doorstep by a rogue, overgrown, bread-fed Kiwi bird (those rare things are here in Russell, you know. And they're nocturnal), or b) dreaming that I'm in New Zealand but really sleeping in my Mommy and Daddy's house in Atlanta (self-esteem? what self-esteem?). In which case, I would need a pinch to determine the difference between fantasy and reality. And, as I've mentioned before, Russell doesn't seem to possess many candidates for the pinching role. All of which is a rather circuitous way of saying: while the first lesson has its advantages, to be sure, the second may have even more. Of course, with the Kiwis' prevalent use of the Mary Jane, perhaps with an indulgence I could imagine myself racing into outer space at speeds approaching that of light for just a few minutes...when I got back, summer would already be here. Of course, it'd be the summer of 2263, but whatever. As malleable as time may be, at regular human speed, I've got about six weeks before the town sees more plastic than Pam Anderson. And six weeks of surviving that Kiwi bird.
The third thing that I have learned is multi-pronged actually: when living abroad, expect the unexpected. The French chef is, indeed, at least thus far, a prett cool guy. As short as Napoleon but without the froo-froo complex, I think he likes me because 1) I'm the only other guy on a staff of women and 2) I'm American--no, I doubt the French have gained an appreciation for our culture, rather, it may be my confidence that inspires him to believe in me. And believe me, I screwed up a lot on our first busy night over the recent Labor Day weekend. The unexpected? The Australian girlfriend, who is in charge of the hospitality staff. Which means me. Which means, wasn't Australia a penal colony at one point? Can we resurrect that idea and ship her back? Suffice it to say, she's not exactly the encouraging, complementary type. When I say "not exactly," I'm thinking the ratio of accusatory criticisms to complements is eternity. As any good manager does, she leads by whip. I want to stick her in a boat filled with chum and push her in the direction of Australia. Or Haiti. Wherever the currents take her dinghy. She reminds me of a ghostly character in a haunted house movie, which is appropriate, I think, as Halloween nears. Her eyes, dark and soulless, really, perched above an elven nose, stare at you as if she's passing the final judgment of damnation. She walks without upper body movement, reminiscent of a ghost flitting from room to room from the vantage point at the end of a long hallway. Her hair is black and stringy and when not pulled together might host a species of bat that lives on human heads. She disappears before the restaurant opens for dinner ostensibly to cleanse herself for the nightly odyssey of heartless and charisma-deficient service she provides--efficiently, I must say--for her paying customers. I think she disappears to rejoin her coven, but whatever.
Restaurant work is hard work, if only because it's a combination of mental organization, timing, and soul-crushing criticism from upper management. "I'll do whatever I can to help," is all I say when told that rather than pay me hourly, they're putting me on salary because they are trying to squeeze hours out of the restaurant for everyone. I'm not sure how beneficial that change will be, as it leaves the two Czech girls in charge of the outdoor Garden Bar (which will be really nice come summertime), and leaves me doing more restaurant work, and perhaps a little kitchen work, as well (don't ask, because I don't know). Basically, I'm turning into the restaurant slut without any of the benefits. I'm sure she's got a voodoo doll of me upstairs in her lair.
On a side note, on my final day in Auckland before travelling north, I went to an aquarium that is actually located under a city street. As in, you drive over it to get to it. On the edumacational side, I now know everything there is to know about Antarctica, which constituted a major part of the museum--the first expeditions down there, the climate, the impact on the global ecosystem, you know, boring stuff like that. I know, as a matter of fact, that the ozone hole over Antarctica has improved since the 1980's when it was reputedly the next global climate catastrophe (falling right after warnings about the new ice age that never came and the global food crisis which never came, and right before the latest global warming craze that garnered Al Gore the credit he never got for inventing the Internet). But, the best part of the aquarium, other than sticking your hand in ice water that replicates the water temperature in Antarctica (can you guess that it's cold?), oh and the sharks that swim over your head as you walk in one of those overhead aquarium things, was the penguins. Love the penguins. Love the waddle. Love the parenting skills they have. There's really nothing not to like about penguins. There are so few animals you can say that about. I used to think that way about elephants, but then you read about elephants stomping their handlers to death, plus you never really hear about all the casualties in places like Laos and Thailand and places like that, so it's probably an underreported large violent land mammal. And they've been known to trunk down farmers' rice beer in India. Who needs alcoholic elephants causing havoc?--they're ornery enough without the beer. Anyway, all that is beside the point. I like penguins. And you should, too.
Which brings me full circle in a clever writing device I like to call "bringing it full circle." The original name for Russell is Kororareka; you know, the Maori name before the white man showed up and said, "too hard to pronounce, especially with all the rum in our stomachs." Russell was once, after all, a den of prostitution, drinking, and inveterate hedonism (where did you go, Russell?)--thus it's 19th century nickname "the hellhole of the Pacific." Naturally, it's now a place for rich Europeans to summer in, an irony that seems to be part of a story told too many times in other places around the world as well (the restaurant where I work was once a brothel--I knew it had charm). The name was changed in 1844 and before you think you've had your New Zealand history lesson for the day (or your life), try this: legend has it that a Maori chief, wounded in battle, asked for and received some penguin broth to be brought to him. After drinking the broth, he said "ka reka te korora" or "how sweet is the penguin." Thus Kororareka - korora being the blue penguin, and reka- meaning sweet. And there you have it. Another legend which is probably part-truth, part-fiction, yet invariably cruel to the one animal that everyone should like. What did a penguin ever do to you?
P.s. I found out that the French chef and his "she'll float in the lake with weights tied to her legs" girlfriend are 30 years old. Which means I'm the oldest person in the restaurant. Which means I swallow my pride, she swallows my soul, and a beer mug is about to swallow me.